I signed up to this 4 day hike because my Dad’s friend, who organised it, needed some people to replace 3 drop outs. It happens when you have to book your trip a year in advance due to its overwhelming popularity. We were a motley crew – some of us hardcore fitness fanatics who only half joked about trail racing up the mountain, others distinguished wine connoisseurs for whom getting up to open the next bottle counts as sufficient exercise for the month.
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We drove to De Hoop Nature Reserve in the Overberg, about 3 hours from Cape Town. The first night is spent at ‘base camp’ i.e. Potberg, where pre-hiking spirits were high and beers – the last cold ones for a while - were flowing.
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The following morning, our slightly worse for wear group set out from Potberg to hike the 14,7km stretch to Cupidoskraal hut. The Whale Trail is what we termed ‘gliking’ or glamorous hiking. Porters drive your pre-packed crates of food and gear between the huts, leaving you with just a day pack of snacks and cameras.
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The first day’s hike is the toughest, with a long climb to the summit of Potberg at 611m. Fynbos is plentiful, but you’re left wondering where the whales are. After an arduous day, we were grateful to sit down to a delicious meal of lamb stew and rice, pre-frozen and warmed up in the fully equipped kitchen – like I said, gliking!
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Day two was actually days two and three combined, making it 19km in total. Noetsie hut disintegrated due to beetle infestation over the winter, so we bypassed it and headed straight for Hamerkop hut on the beach. As we left the mountains behind and the coastline came into sight, we heard the first shout of WHALES!! It turned out to be a false alarm, and if I only had a cent for every time we mistook foam capped waves for whales!! But when we finally spotted these gentle giants blowing and breaching in the turquoise waters, it was a special moment.
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Day three was an 11km hard hike along the beach in extremely soft sand. We tried everything to ease our calf muscles – walking backwards, walking in one another’s footprints, and finally drinking warm beer. Our last night at Vaalkrans hut was spent round the table with each of us sharing the highlight of our experience. It was a memorable night with memorable people – it was exactly why we travel.
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Day four was a relatively short 6km walk along beach cliff paths to the finish, where a shuttle collected us and drove us back to Potberg. The photos capture just a fraction of what was, for me, a true bucket list experience.
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Stay in De Hoop Reserve
Planning on booking for the Whale Trail too? Why not enjoy 2 nights of comfort after the Whale Trail hike with a stay at De Hoop Nature Reserve?
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The De Hoop Collection comprises 34 cottages and houses, built in the traditional Arniston fishing cottage style.