Soweto has long been an iconic symbol of the Struggle during Apartheid, culminating in our commemoration of the Soweto Uprising on Youth Day. In recent years however, the face of Soweto has changed. While it will always have great historical significance to South Africans, it is currently enjoying a renaissance of sorts with particular focus on arts, culture and good old adventure tourism in South Africa.
To get started, I dropped by Lebo Backpackers in Orlando West. As the only black-owned backpackers in the township, Lebo Malepa and his guides offer tours by foot, bicycle or bright yellow tuk-tuk, which was my choice on this sunny Saturday.
My first stop was Orlando Towers. The graphics painted on the side bring the meaning of street art to a new level – it’s inspirational and so very South African. In between the towers is a platform used by the brave (or crazy) for bungee jumping. There is free jumping from inside the towers if you’re courageous enough – I have to confess I was not! In high season the towers get up 1000 visitors each day.
Outside the towers I met an awesome tour guide called Kgomotso, who runs township tours and adventure activities in the area. His quad bike tour of the neighbourhood is especially popular, but he also does everything from go karting to bootcamps, and even a TV-show inspired Amazing Race around the township.
Next up was Vilikazi Street, a kilometre long, triangular shaped precinct crammed full or art exhibitions dedicated to community and the Struggle. I hopped out the tuk-tuk and took a leisurely stroll, stopping to relax on a one of the benches and just enjoy the people watching. My favourite installation was a series of giant hands spelling Vilikazi in sign language.
Vilikazi is also famously the home of two Nobel peace prize winners – number 8115 is Mandela’s old family home, and just a couple of blocks away is Desmond Tutu’s house. It’s fun to think of a young Mandela and Tutu meeting at the corner of their streets for a game of soccer – I don’t know if this ever happened, but you kind of hope it did.
While strolling down the road, I passed a sign reading Sowteo Snake House. It was too fascinating to resist, so I popped in and met Lindiwe, a Vilikazi resident who began collecting snakes when her daughter fell in love with them. She now owns a variety of enormous serpents including pythons and a boa constrictor. This time I found my courage and allowed her to wrap me in one of her slippery friends – he was very heavy but he made quite a fetching hat.
Back in the tuk-tuk, we drove past Maponya, an enormous snazzy shopping mall with a Virgin Active gym. Soweto is much more developed and suburban than visitors expect, but the names of places are reminders of its rich history.
After that it was back to Lebo’s for a quick bite to eat, and then I was on my way. There is so much more to see of Soweto though, and I will definitely be back soon for more of the vibrant, warm community spirit.
Click here for places to stay near Soweto
