Arriving in the rain we were so grateful to be welcomed by a crackling fire and cup of tea at Hartford House. After this warm welcome, we were shown to our cosy suites which had been meticulously prepared for our arrival, with underfloor heating, fireplaces and heaters to ward off the chill and a selection of home-made treats and biltong to tuck into.
Dining at Hartford is an experience - five courses of the best local produce are delicately prepared and beautifully presented to create a visual and sensory delight. Imagine flaked kabeljou around a bright green wasabi pond followed by mushroom ash, smoked creamy potato and caramelised duck. Warm roast white chocolate mousse with blood orange foam on a birds nest finished off an incredible meal.
The next morning we woke to a view of magical gardens wreathed in mist, horses being brought down to the pastures and an otter cavorting in the dam before heading off to explore more of the what the Midlands has to offer.
Our first stop was the historically fascinating Nelson Mandela Capture Site. This very unassuming memorial is located right on the R103 at Lions River. At first you can’t see what all the fuss is about but as we walked down to the monument it literally transformed itself right before our eyes. You have to see it to believe it! This inspiring art piece felt really appropriate for our inspirational leader. At the moment a new museum to showcase the life and times of Nelson Mandela is being built nearby and we will definitely pop in on our next visit to the area.
Autumn is a gorgeous time to visit the Midlands in KwaZulu Natal. The leaves are changing colour and every shade of red and gold is on display. Driving along country lanes watching the leaves catch the breeze is so good for the soul.
We stopped in at the Piggly Wiggly for a light lunch, and the ploughmans platter seemed like a great chance to sample the locally produced cheeses, meats and home-baked breads.
Carrying on along the meander, we stopped in at Treasures and Trash where room after room is filled to the ceilings with previously loved and retired goods - crystal, silver and glassware, paintings, antiques, tea sets, gramophones… all the things that we fondly remember from our grandparents homes. As luck would have it we stumbled across a beautiful Wedgewood platter for an upcoming birthday present.
We then headed off to explore the Kamberg Valley, winding our way through farms, dams and avenues of trees, and stopping to allow the cows to cross the road, we reached the foothills of the Drakensberg and our next overnight stop, Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse where another gorgeous roaring fireplace greeted us.
The creative charm of this country house is evident in the quirky pendant lights made of colanders, graters and sieves and these all speak to the owners’ incredible passion for food.
Our dinner later that evening was an indulgence in flavour - 5 courses of gourmet cuisine including trout two ways with horseradish sauce and resurrected prawn cocktail with litchis and hint of harissa spice. The Angus beef on the menu is marinaded for days, seared and rested for 18 hours, then placed in a hot oven for a few minutes and rested again before being served. This intensive process results in the most melt in the mouth steak which is served with the fluffiest Yorkshire puddings.
The next morning was perfect for a walk around the dam where the water was so clear the trout were clearly visible (obviously very tempting for any fly fishermen!)
The owners, Richard and Mouse, then invited us to view the newest addition to Cleopatra’s - a beautiful 2-bedroom self-catering cottage. Situated on the river below the imposing mountains of the Drakensburg this is set to become a very popular family getaway.
Leaving Cleopatra’s, we drove 10 minutes up the road into the Drakensberg mountains to visit Highmoor Nature Reserve. After a short walk across a few streams, we arrived at three dams where we joined one solitary fly-fisherman to enjoy the most magnificent panoramic mountain view.
This highlighted to us the beauty of visiting the Midlands midweek. The area is a lot quieter and there are far fewer visitors so it’s more peaceful and there’s much more time to take things slowly and really “meander”.
Our next stay was to be at Fordoun Hotel and Spa set in the rolling hills of Nottingham Road. Imaginatively converted from an 1860s dairy and homestead, each room is individually styled and the mountain suites boast panoramic views of the majestic Drakensberg mountains.
We were ushered to our glorious mountain suite by golf cart, just in time for a splendid sunset. After being warmed up in the spa’s sauna and steam room we headed down to the restaurant to enjoy more glorious gourmet food, prepared with seasonal farm produce and the freshest local ingredients in the fine dining restaurant, Skye Bistro.
Fordoun’s renowned wellness spa features indoor heated pool, outdoor pool, floatation tank, rasul, vichy shower and spa lovers revel in the many tempting treatments, combining international ranges and uniquely African products made from Zulu traditional healing plants grown in the indigenous garden.
The next morning we visited the new Fordoun Farm Village, stylish self-catering chalets that will make for great family holidays. These are currently still a work in progress, but there will be grassed central field and a stunning working farm experience for kids.
The Midlands is full of wonderful people who opened their homes to us and shared their passion for local, home-made produce, crafts and art. We thoroughly enjoyed our Midlands Meander and will certainly return very soon to experience this part of the country again in a different season!
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