Arriving at Coco De Mer is like taking a cool drink of water on a hot, humid day. The hotel simply sparkles with freshness, calm and a deliciously tropical feel. It was a warm but unusually windy day in Durban and we were typically overdressed for travelling, so when we arrived we were hot and sticky. The discomfort faded instantly as we stepped into the shade of the garden, a tropical paradise overlooked by a towering, expansive tree. Just standing there surrounded by the lush vegetation, we felt at peace.
We were warmly welcomed at reception by Nush, whose first order of business was to refresh us further with a glass of sparkling wine. She proved very knowledgeable and helpful when we asked about restaurants in the area for dinner that evening.
Because we’ve recently bought a house, travelling these days serves not only as a spiritual balm on our tired souls but also as a widespread home décor solution. Wherever we go we’re taking photos, writing notes and generally stealing other people’s fabulous design ideas. Coco De Mer provided us with plenty to plagiarise.
The piece-de-resistance was the raised bathroom with enormous spa bath that is separated from the main bedroom by shutters. You can hop in the bath and leave the shutters open to gaze at the not too distant ocean while you sip your champagne. We have a bit of a thing for accommodation with Jacuzzis and spa baths, to the point that my husband even proposed to me in one, so this was a massive plus for us.
After washing off the travel grime, we hopped in the car and drove 10 minutes down the road to Beach Bums for lunch. Recommended to us by friends who regularly stay in Ballito, Beach Bums is a beach bar and restaurant on Casaurina Beach whose strapline – life is FORVER CHILLED – appealed to our uber-relaxed Capetonion spirits.
Sitting at a table right on the beach with our toes digging in the sand and a cold beer in hand, we toasted the beginning of our holiday. This moment is one of my favourite when travelling – being right at the start of a wonderful adventure with days of new discoveries stretched ahead of you. There are few things in life that feel better.
After lunch, we made a beeline for the hotel and our spa bath. With a chilled bottle of bubbles waiting for us in the fridge, we passed the remainder of the afternoon sitting in the Jacuzzi and planning the rest of our trip.
Nush’s recommendation for dinner was Coco De Mer’s in-house restaurant, Fiamma. I am usually sceptical of hotel restaurants, for while a hotel can be everything you dreamed of, the restaurant is often overpriced, underwhelming and completely lacking in atmosphere. Not so Fiamma. According to TripAdvisor most travellers agree, having rated it the number one eatery in the area. So we booked a table and looked forward to being impressed…
Impressed was an understatement. Like the service we’d had on arrival, our experience at Fiamma was magic. From the moment we were seated on the fairylight-adorned deck to the swift - but not too swift - arrival of our tasty meals, we were hooked. The food lived up to the TripAdvisor reviews and then some. We shared feta and spinach stuffed calamari and mussels in a creamy white wine and garlic sauce for starters, and Mark had the perfectly charred ribeye steak for mains while I gorged on the kingklip smothered in Hollandaise sauce served on a crispy hash brown. We couldn’t finish everything, but we had a great time trying.
Coco De Mer is a slice of island luxury in one of Durban’s best beach spots; the kind of oasis that I look forward to visiting regularly.
Click here to book your stay at Coco De Mer in Durban
Text and Images: Lauren Austin