Peter says: “I have received many an email from my foreign guests telling me that the recommendation that I made for an amazing trip from Wilderness was indeed the highlight of their visit to South Africa. I still think it is a wonderful day out, even for me when I take friends who have not experienced it.”
The trip
The trip starts early as it’s a long day. I serve a delicious gourmet breakfast at about 07.30 and like to see my guests set off by 9am. From here they will take the old Seven Passes back road to George, winding through stunning forests and stopping to take photo’s on the two hand-built stone bridges. This road was built by Sir Thomas Baines in the 1800s, using slave labour and prisoners to carve it out by hand all the way from George to Knysna. At that time it was the only passage between these towns and is a marvel of wonder to travel even part of it.
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Then From George they’ll take the Outeniqua Pass through to Oudtshoorn for a quick coffee break. After that the journey continues out towards the Cango Caves (no time to visit ) and up over the Swartberg Pass.(Image at the top of this post) Oh my goodness, WHAT an amazing experience! It’s fantastic - being in and among the incredible scenery of the mountains is indescribable. I have travelled myself extensively worldwide, but have NEVER seen anything like this.
Once on the other side, it’s time for lunch so I direct my guests to the quaint and quite charming Karoo town, Prince Albert, where one is spoilt for choice for a lovely cafe for lunch. The first cafe on the left side, run by two sisters, serves a Karoo platter. My goodness what a treat that is, and the last time I had it I just wanted to go lay down on the lawn outside and sleep it off!
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With an eye on the time, it should be about 2.30pm but hopefully, before 3 when they set off again for the return journey, but this time coming back round the other side of the mountains and passing Meiringspoort . It’s so full of history and is jaw-dropping in its incredible beauty. It’s like someone took liquid mountain in their hands and decided to let it pour backwards and forwards in gloopy mounds, some of which tower hundreds of metres above you in this narrow pass.
The point of the timing is now apparent as the lower zenith of the sun backlights the wonderful ochre and deep maroons of the mountain rock formations, and the splashes of green tree outcrops, that look incongruous yet almost luminous. There is a very interesting information centre set out in one of the carparks, from which there is an easy climb of about 15 minutes to see the waterfall that runs throughout the rocks many metres above, and disappears into a rock pool, the depth of which is apparently unknown.
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Setting off again to the quaint town of De Rust, guests can stop for tea (or maybe a glass of wine…) but should bear in mind it’s still a good 50 minute drive back to Phoenix from this point. Again, many lovely little shops to visit in this town. One mustn’t miss Ilsa’s Glass Shop…Oh wow, what a place. It’s actually her house that happens to front the main road, and she has converted her sitting and dining rooms into studios to sell her wares. Each room is piled high with stunning glass works, from platters and ashtrays in awesome colours, to barbed wire set between two pieces of melted glass to delicate glass snowflakes.
From there it’s back to Oudtshoorn and then back the way you came to George and finally, Wilderness.
The trip is about ten hours and is only one of several that I have planned for my guests, but by far the most wonderful.
Top image: Swartberg Pass by Frederic. CC licence
Stay at Phoenix Guesthouse in Wilderness
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Be pampered in luxury, set in an ancient indigenous forest clearing with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean below. The peace and tranquility at Phoenix Guest House, with all modern comforts is a place to rest your soul.