We usually manage ten days or so in the Cape, where the summer weather is almost totally reliable.
This year we ventured to the farthest and quieter vineyards and spent time in the Hex River Valley at De Doorns. Following a drive of around 90 minutes North of Cape Town we reached our home for four nights - a lovely B & B nestling among the vineyards.
The valley entrance is spectacular. The road rises towards two "sentinels" of rock between which the entrance to the Pass has been cut. As you go through this portal a magnificent vista of vineyards set at the foot of the majestic Matroosberg Mountains unfolds below. Around 300 tons of fine table grapes are produced annually in this valley, over half the total amount of the country''s production.
There is also a unique attraction now available in the valley, which provided us with an unforgettable and unique experience - ''The Hexpas Express''.
This is the admirable resurrection of the now defunct railway route from De Doorns across the Hex River Pass, overlooking the valley and the majestic Matroosberg mountain range. The carriage is pulled at up to 20km/h by a vintage Fordson 35 h.p. tractor whose rear wheels happened to fit the 3'' 6'''' gauge track, and whose front wheels have been specially engineered for the purpose. The guide talked enthusiastically about the history of the railroad, which runs through some of South Africa''s finest scenery. It was built in the1870s but rejected for a shorter track in 1989.
During the ride the guide identified some of the indigenous plants, many utilised by Khoi San for various uses such as making their bows, tipping them with poison, or for curing various ailments, some of which are now being investigated. Baboons, rock hoppers, and numerous interesting birds were spotted and the route included a tunnel and a dramatic hand-hewn cutting.
The remains of a British stone fort still guards the cutting as it did during the Boer War around 1900. Various names of the soldiers could clearly be made out inscribed into the rock, bringing home the reality of the dangers they experienced in defending the line from Boer attacks.
We reached a scenic picnic destination at the former home of Japie our driver, who grew up here with his family and who for several generations made their living on the track.
Speaking in Afrikaans, translated by our guide, he passionately conveyed to us an insight into how hard life was, existing among the elements, when winters were often severe and shelter in the tiny trackside caves was sometimes necessary often for hours on end.
Our sumptuous picnic completed, were claimed our seats for the downward return journey which gradually revealed the valley again as we rounded the notorious ''Mitchell''s bend'', the scene of a disaster many years ago. The 5-hour trip had been more than a train journey - it was a leisurely adventure in time into a beautiful mountain world unnoticed by the cars speeding into view in the valley below.
The rest of our trip to the Cape was punctuated by visits to many beautiful vineyards but nothing could cap our experience high above the fabulous Hex River Valley.
(Story and Images: Bev Wilkinson. All rights reserved)
Need to Know
BOOKING ESSENTIAL 24 HOURS AHEAD OF THE TRIP
Contact: 083 449 1940 / 083 292 0348
Email: hexpaseco@emailme.co.za
Times & Dates:
Wednesdays and Saturdays
- November to April - 09:00
- May to October - 10:00 (bring warm clothes)
- Special trips, for groups of at least 8 people, can be arranged for any other day of the week.
Different Trips Options:
From Hexpas Station to:
- Tunnel Station (4 hours)
- Kaffrarian Rifles Monument (5h30min)
- Matroosberg Station (7 hours)
Picnic:
Time for a picnic at Tunnel Station is included on all trips.
Bring your own picnic basket OR order one from Kikko d’Uva at 072 332 3829 OR buy snacks at the Veldskoen Farm Stall (08:00-17:00)
Departure:
Veldskoen Farm Stall (35 km from Worcester on N1)
Trolley excursions on passenger''s own risk.